Recipes from the Collection of Mark and Danielle Hughes
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Lentils in a new light Specialty lentils, now increasingly available at markets, offer tastes and textures that outshine the drab green-brown legume that many people know as Lenten fare. In the hands of a respectful cook, they shine as a foil for bright and lively flavors while adding a protein punch to any meal. My lentil conversion came with the tiny, sea green variety from France known as lentilles vertes du Puy. Smaller than ordinary lentils, they hold their shape during cooking and add a nutty, almost peppery, flavor to salads and braises. These little lentils did not turn to an unappetizing sludge when I cooked them for a salad, and they brought so much flavor to the plate that it was hard to think of them as belonging to the same family as the common green lentil sold in bulk bins at natural food stores. The French have known this for years, of course. Lentil salad -- with crunchy carrots and celery, and a sprightly red wine vinegar with mustard dressing -- plays the role of potato salad at many a Gallic picnic. Duck confit and lentils are another traditional combination. I've long been a fan of red lentils, the key ingredient in one of my favorite soups. They do fall apart when cooked but turn a lively yellow color, and their earthy flavor works well with the bright shot of lemon that makes the soup sing. That was the extent of my lentil repertoire, however, until I began seeing unfamiliar varieties at the market and cooking new dishes with roots in cultures bordering the Mediterranean and South Asia. Lentils derive their name from the Latin word for lens, which their shape resembles. Scholars trace them back as far as 8000 B.C. in the Middle East. The inexpensive source of protein had spread to the lands now known as Greece by 3000 B.C. They're mentioned in the Book of Genesis, when Esau, son of Isaac, traded his birthright to his brother Jacob for a dish of lentils. Passage to India The seeds are thought to have arrived in South Asia around 1000 B.C., where they became an important staple and the chief ingredient in many dals -- the spicy purees at the heart of Indian cuisine, vegetarian or not. Fast-cooking split red lentils make an especially creamy dal and are the basis of Madhur Jaffrey's Bombay-style chicken stew. Not least among the attraction of most lentils is their low price. Common green lentils run less than $1 a pound. Red lentils, their hulls removed, are slightly more. Specialty lentils can cost 10 times as much. ``Actually there's a joke back in the Middle East,'' says Emad Ibrahim, owner of Dishdash restaurant in Sunnyvale. ``At the beginning of the month, when you get paid, you cook chicken and meat the first week. The rest of the month you eat lentils.'' Ibrahim, whose family is from Palestine, says he still eats the classic rice, green lentil and caramelized onion dish known as mujadra once a week. The onions give a sweet depth to the mild lentils and rice. The Lebanese version, mujadra bel burghul, is made with bulgur for a firmer texture. Lentils also serve as a good canvas for cumin, curry, garlic and olive oil, Ibrahim points out. ``It's a great flavor, and I truly think it is something that's not that exposed.'' In this country, lentils have never enjoyed great popularity outside the vegetarian community except during Lent (which derives its name from the Old English term for the lengthening days of spring). That's beginning to change with the growing interest in the nutritional value of beans and grains and the increased availability of imported foodstuffs. Traditional lentils from Italy and Spain are now available at upscale markets. Many varieties also are grown in the United States. along the Washington-Idaho border, including the little French green lentil and its stylish black hybrid, the beluga. The favorite of chefs, though, is the lentille verte du Puy grown according to strict standards in the volcanic soil of central France. Much like French wine and cheese, it carries the Apellation d'origine contro^lée label to identify its origin and authenticity. A San Francisco-based distributor, Made in France, has been importing lentilles vertes du Puy from Auvergne for 15 years, but buyer Catherine Pefkars says sales -- primarily to restaurants -- increased by more than 26 percent from 2001 to 2002. Scott Cooper, chef of four-star Le Papillon, is among the converts. He serves a grilled quail salad on a green lentil pancake with smoked bacon vinaigrette at his Saratoga restaurant. ``I think chefs are gaining an appreciation for new or even heirloom foodstuffs that allow them to do something different,'' says Cooper, who sees lentils as an appealing alternative to predictable potatoes or rice. Donia Bijan, chef and owner of L'Amie Donia, likes to serve the lentil in salads or with duck or roast chicken at her Palo Alto bistro. ``I love the earthiness of it. It's sort of the alternative vegetable,'' Bijan says. ``There's your starch; there's your legume. I love it with a bitter green like chard or beet greens.'' Home cooks have to look around to find lentilles vertes du Puy. Although Draeger's and Oakville markets on the Peninsula carry them ($8.75 and $8.50 respectively for 17.5 ounces), most supermarkets do not. Italian gems Even more rare are the smaller pink, green and brown lentils known as lenticche di Castellucio from the Umbria region of Italy. A.G. Ferrari Foods is the exclusive importers of these firm, nutty-tasting little seeds ($9.95 for 17.5 ounces), which carry the label of Indicazione Geografica Protetta, or geographic mark of origin. ``The Castellucio are hand-picked and organically grown,'' says Gianlucca Guglilemi, executive chef of the A.G. Ferrari delicatessens. ``They cook in like 15 to 20 minutes because the size of the lentils is very small.'' They're ideal for a quick soup or salad, says Guglilemi, who shares his recipe for a lively salad prepared with sauteed spinach and shredded carrots similar to one that his delis are making now with a less costly lentil. The texture is chewy and crunchy and the flavors fresh, with a vinegary kick. Salads like this are just the sort of dish to change anyone's mind about lentils.
A guide to six of the types of lentils available in the South Bay. Beluga: A tiny black hybrid of the French green lentil prized for its appearance, which resembles caviar. Holds shape when cooked. Good in soups, braises and salads. Castellucio: Small, pink, green and brown seeds with a nutty taste. Holds shape when cooked. Grown in the hill town of Castellucio, in Umbria. Used in soups and salads. Green: Large, greenish-brown with an earthy flavor. Collapses when cooked. Most common type in the United States. Good in chili, casseroles, stews and soups. Le Puy: From central France. Small and blue-green. Holds shape when cooked. Slightly peppery, used in salads, braises. Known as French green lentils when grown outside Le Puy. Pardina: Small brown lentils from Spain. Milder flavor than French green. Holds shape when cooked. Favored for soups. Red: Sold with skin removed, exposing orange-red seed. Believed to have originated in Turkey. Color fades to yellow when cooked and lentils collapse. Good for purees and in Middle Eastern and Asian recipes. Lentil soup Serves 6 5 1/2 cups water In a soup pot, bring water and a bouquet garni of parsley, bay and thyme tied together in a bundle to a high simmer. Add chicken; bring back to slow simmer, cover and cook 5 minutes. Remove from heat and let sit, covered, for 30 minutes. Remove chicken, let cool and shred. Remove herbs and discard. Broth will be used in the soup. While chicken is cooling, warm olive oil in a large skillet and saute vegetables until soft. Stir in marjoram. Add cooked vegetables and lentils to broth. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat to a simmer and cook for 20 minutes. Stir in white wine and cook about 10 minutes more or until lentils are tender. Add chicken and heat until warmed through. Add salt and pepper to taste. At the last minute, add parsley and juice from lemon. Serve. Per serving: 272 calories, 22g protein, 8g fat ( 2g saturated), 25g carbohydrate, 59mg sodium, 39mg cholesterol, 5g dietary fiber. Warm lentil salad Serves 4 1 1/4 cups small French du Puy lentils Combine lentils, broth, salt, pepper to taste, thyme and bay leaves in a pot. Cover; place over medium heat and simmer until lentils are tender, about 1 hour. Remove from heat; transfer contents of pot to a mixing bowl and let cool to room temperature. Meanwhile, heat oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add onions, carrots and celery and cook until carrots are soft, about 12 minutes. Do not let onion brown. Add contents of skillet to warm lentils and gently mix together. Stir in vinegar and mustard. Mix in parsley. Serve immediately or chill and serve. 381 calories, 22g protein, 11g fat ( 1g saturated), 49g carbohydrate, 999mg sodium, 0mg cholesterol, 10g dietary fiber.
Mujadra bel burghul (Lentils and bulgur with caramelized onions) Serves 6 4 cups chicken stock In a large pan, bring stock to a boil. Add allspice, chile powder and tomato paste. Stir well and add lentils. Simmer with lid on for about 15 minutes or until lentils are almost tender. Add salt and pepper to taste and stir in bulgur. Cook, covered, over very low heat for 10 or 15 minutes, adding a little water if it becomes too dry. Turn off heat and leave dish covered 10 minutes longer, until bulgur is plump and tender. Stir in 5 tablespoons olive oil. While lentils and bulgur are cooking: In a large frying pan, saute onions in remaining 3 tablespoons oil over medium heat for about 30 minutes, stirring often, until very brown. Turn up heat in last few minutes to caramelize onions. Serve lentils and bulgur topped with the onions. Per serving: 419 calories, 15g protein, 21g fat ( 3g saturated), 48g carbohydrate, 699mg sodium, 0mg cholesterol, 10g dietary fiber.
Bombay-style chicken with red split lentils Serves 6 1 1/4 cups red split lentils Pick over, wash and drain lentils. Combine lentils, onions, chile, cumin, turmeric, 1 teaspoon ginger and water in a large, heavy pot with lid. Bring to a simmer, cover, leaving lid slightly ajar and cook on low heat for 45 minutes. Add chicken and salt. Mix and bring to a boil. Cover; turn heat to low and simmer gently 25-30 minutes more, or until chicken is tender. Put oil in a small frying pan and set over medium heat. When hot, add cumin seeds. As soon as seeds begin to sizzle -- a few seconds -- add garlic and remaining 1/2 teaspoon chopped ginger. Fry until garlic turns slightly brown. Add cayenne and immediately remove pan from heat and pour all of oil and spices into the pan with chicken and lentils. Add lemon juice, sugar, garam masala and peas. Stir to mix and cook at medium-low heat for 5 minutes. Sprinkle fresh cilantro over top. Note: Garam masala may be purchased at Indian grocers or you can make your own from the recipe below. 341 calories, 36g protein, 9g fat ( 1g saturated), 30g carbohydrate, 965mg sodium, 76mg cholesterol, 6g dietary fiber.
Garam masala Makes about 3 tablespoons 1 tablespoon cardamom seeds Place all ingredients in an electric coffee grinder or other spice grinder. Turn machine on for 30-40 seconds or until spices are finely ground. Store in a small jar with a tight-fitting lid, away from heat and sunlight. Per serving: 7 calories, 0g protein, 0g fat ( 0g saturated), 1g carbohydrate, 1mg sodium, 0mg cholesterol, 0g dietary fiber.
Insalata di Lenticchie (lentil salad) Serves 6 2 cups Lenticchie di Castelluccio (see Note) Place lentils in a large pot with 3 quarts cold water and 3 teaspoons sea salt. Bring to a boil and simmer for 20-25 minutes. Let lentils cool in pot for 30 minutes, then drain and set aside. Meanwhile, heat 1/4 cup olive oil in a large skillet; add spinach and saute 2-3 minutes. Set spinach aside. When lentils and spinach are both at room temperature, combine them with carrots, vinegar, pepper, remaining olive oil and salt and toss well. Serve at room temperature. Note: This salad can be prepared the day before. You can substitute other lentils that hold their shape when cooked for the Italian lentils called for in this recipe. 400 calories, 20g protein, 20g fat ( 3g saturated), 41g carbohydrate, 1,702mg sodium, 0mg cholesterol, 10g dietary fiber.
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