Seaweed Gelatin (Agar)
Asia's versatile gelatin product springs from the sea
By Walter Nicholls, Washington Post 7/9/03
To those of a certain age, a quivering, molded crown of fruit-flavored
gel, commingled with canned fruit cocktail, was standard Sunday dinner
fare. A tangy tomato aspic brought color to a holiday buffet table.
Put that picture completely out of your mind.
Those sometimes glorious creations were made with gelatin, the small envelopes
of powder sold in American supermarkets. That type of gelatin is made
from meat byproducts -- skin, most likely, or bones.
But a very different gel product has been widely used in Asia for more
than 1,000 years. This gelatin comes from the sea. In Malaysia, the product
used to make the gelatin is called agar-agar, also known as ``agar-2''
-- a natural stabilizing and thickening agent processed from seaweed.
Its advantage over other gelatins is that it sets and melts at a higher
temperature. Flavors are sealed in quickly.
How does a gel come from seaweed? It's a complicated procedure. Throughout
Asia, principally China and Korea as well as in Japan, where agar is called
kanten, red gelidium and gracilari, seaweeds are collected and transported
to factories. Technicians rinse, boil, press, mold and freeze-dry the
sea vegetables, reducing them to airy, pearl-colored bars and strands.
The bars are cut into sticks, shaved into flakes or reduced to a powder.
Strands of agar are a component ingredient in the seaweed salad available
at sushi bars. Not surprisingly, vegetarians choose agar, rich in iodine
and trace minerals, over animal-based gelatin products.
A basic agar gel is simple to prepare. Agar products are sold at Asian
markets and health-food stores, but novices may want to start out with
agar flakes. The flakes are most commonly found in health-food stores,
where a 1-ounce packet is in the $5 to $6 range.
``Flakes are the way to go,'' says Jill Gusman, author of ``Vegetables
From the Sea'' (HarperCollins, $27.95). ``The bars and strands and powders
are difficult to work with. But the flakes are consistent, easy to measure
out and easy to dissolve.''
Cooks can adjust the amount of agar somewhat to make a firmer or softer
gel, but in general, 1 tablespoon of agar flakes will gel about 1 cup
of liquid.
Easiest to find in Asian markets are the bars, which sometimes are dyed
bright colors and cost about $3 for a package of two. One bar of agar
will gel 4 cups of liquid. The bars can be ground in a blender or food
processor to make them easier to use.
Agar powder is about $2 for a small packet. It is quite concentrated:
1 teaspoon powder will gel 1 cup of liquid. When buying agar powder, read
the package. Some packages of agar powder are dessert mixes, with sugar
added.
Agar sets more quickly than animal-based gelatin and slides easily from
a mold. Once set, agar will stay firm to temperatures of around 175 degrees
Fahrenheit, while animal-based gelatins tend to dissolve at about 95 degrees.
For many of those reasons, the substance has become a favored ingredient
with a growing number of chefs, including Fabio Trabocchi, executive chef
of Maestro restaurant in Virginia's Ritz-Carlton Tysons Corner.
``The look may say Jell-O. But this is the next level,'' Trabocchi says.
Agar tips
When working with agar flakes, there are a few basics you need to know.
We turned to ``Vegetables From the Sea'' by Jill Gusman (HarperCollins,
2003), from which this advice is adapted:
Unlike animal-based instant gelatins that dissolve in water, agar flakes
have to swell up first with liquid before they dissolve easily.
Soak the flakes first in the liquid from the recipe. Then slowly bring
the mixture just to the boiling point. Lower the heat and simmer until
flakes are no longer visible, about 1 minute. Stirring with a wire whisk
helps break up clumps.
Agar thickens as it cools, not during cooking. To see if mixture is ready
to gel, place a tablespoonful in a small bowl in freezer for 10 minutes.
After agar flakes have dissolved, you may still see clear bubbles. This
will not affect the ability of the mixture to gel. However, chefs often
strain the mixture.
Apple cider gel
Serves 4
4 cups apple cider
4 tablespoons agar flakes
5 cardamom pods
1 3-inch stick cinnamon
4 whole cloves
1 teaspoon grated lemon zest
1/4 cup maple syrup
In a saucepan off the heat, combine cider and agar and set aside for
10 minutes. Have ready an 8- or 9-inch square dish or container.
Place pan over medium heat, add cardamom, cinnamon and cloves and bring
to a boil, whisking constantly to prevent agar from sticking. Reduce heat
to medium-low and simmer, whisking occasionally, for 15 minutes. Remove
pan from heat. Using tongs or a slotted spoon, remove and discard spices.
Add zest and syrup and stir to combine.
Pour hot mixture into dish or container. Cider should reach a depth of
about 1 inch. Set dish aside at room temperature until steam no longer
rises from it. Then refrigerate until firm.
To serve, cut gel into squares.
Per serving: 157 calories, trace protein, trace fat (trace saturated),
26g carbohydrates, 12mg sodium, no cholesterol, 2g dietary fiber.
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